Sunday, April 22, 2012

Stanage in the Spring

I'd like to add a warning to this post. If you plan on climbing at Stanage this post is perhaps a bit of a spoiler for Baws Crawl and  Goliath's Groove. If this is not an issue please read on.

Got on the bus to Manchester and bumped into these two shady looking chaps.

We camped at North Lees Campsite, which turned out to be a great place to stay. 15 minutes from Stanage (amazing climbing) and 15 minutes from Haversage (beer and curry!).

As Taba and Leighn had already climbed at stanage I got the chance to lead some fantastic routes including BAW's Crawl, HVS 5a. The route involves an interesting way to climb a quite intimidating roof.


Taba took a little more of a relaxed approach.


We also climbed another stanage classic, "Goliath's Groove" HVS 5a.
The first 5 metres were made up of a meaty off-width, the first route I've found so far where chunky thighs are an advantage!


The top section is great, if you're not too pumped.


Leighn took on the challenge of "The Left Unconquerable" E1 5a.
After some gentle encouragement from a source we shall not identify.... along the lines of "It's totally safe", "You've got bomber gear, you should go for it" and perhaps an impersonation of a certain farmyard animal. Leighn went for it and fell from the crux hurting his ankle. Just goes to show there's nothing like supportive encouragement from your climbing partners, ahem...


Me and Taba both ended up getting rinsed by "Jeepers Creepers" HVS 5b!
One day I shall return!


Taba got the dubious honour of leading "The file" VS 4c.
"Perhaps the Peak's pre-eminent jamming crack"

Before

After placing initial gear.

On completion of route.

Still, not as bad as this guy!
(An inexperienced climber who was new to grit, after climbing "The File")


We also had a go at some bouldering, something I avoid like the plague!


Here's Taba on Crescent Arete
This boulder problem held more fear for me than a full Scottish winter of climbing!


The weather during our trip was pretty patchy, this encouraged us to pursue objectives closer to our nice dry tent.
"The Tree", (grade unknown.... maybe E15)
Wheres wally?


Thought I better add a few shots for the ladies!